An Epic Journey - 2015: Oman

Sultanate of Oman

Muscat, Oman

18^th May.

OMAN IS AMAZING.

We sailed into Muscat Oman after a very leisurely morning at 1pm.

Oman is on the Arabian Sea, in the Gulf of Oman. Oman is an absolute monarchy, the leader being Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said. He has been leader since 1970 and is the longest serving ruler in the Middle East. Oman only has ‘modest’ oil reserves – 25^th globally, but is ranked as a ‘high income economy. There are no taxes, free education, and the housing for ‘low income people’ looked pretty dammed good.

And they sure love their Sultan.

And what a stunning view met us as we arrived. Huge, baron, savage rock mountains behind white building with a sparkling aqua ocean.

Muscat is amazing. So wonderful. Apart from the fact that it reached 46 degrees today! That’s 114.8 on the old scale! Just got the official temp! Hot! Ridiculously hot but an honest dry heat – not like the sweat fests we have been having.

We did get off to a false start this morning.

We got mobbed by the taxi driver. Got given a guy who promised he had a good car with good air conditioning and could understand us.

We hopped in and off he shot. Before we could asses anything we were roaring up the freeway – when we wanted to be wandering DOWN the freeway towards Old Muscat.

“No – we want to go to Old Muscat”.

“Yes, I take you to markets”

Mean while we were nearly being sick with the heat.

When he pointed to a large mall, we decided that we were being kidnapped.

We demanded that he stop and turn around and take us back.

Yah we were heading back but did have a quick stop to see the amazing Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque and the Opera House. Both very impressive.

Opera House

Mosque

When we got to the port, Tim told them we wanted a very good car, good driver with good English and one who would listen to us.

“That is me, I am the boss. I will take you”.

So off we set in our Toyota Limousine class car. Brilliant. A super car with the nicest driver. He was great and we talked about all kinds of things.

Now our brilliant day had begun and we could see how truly amazing Muscat is.

Before we even left the dock there were wonderful old boats unloading huge loads of watermelon. Passing them hand over hand then rolling the up the truck to stacked in perfect order.

Another boat was loaded with bales of something like pea grass.

This boat is the supply ship for the Sultan Yacht. It carries things like his cars, his helicopters, and his 60piece orchestra when he travels. Our driver’s real job is with this company. He used to be at sea but is now in the office.

It is not a sterile over developed place like Dubai. This place was pumping with a sense of spirit. The place was immaculately clean and stunning to look at.

The roadsides were planted with palms and grass and amazingly topiaried bushes.

Then the white low-level building with the rocky hills as a back drop. Along the coast the hills had forts dotted along, with walls and roads between them.

The Sultans Palace was stunning. Absolutely amazing and in such an amazing place, over looking the sea, near the forts. Beautiful building.

Gardeners everywhere, street sweepers and all. The place was stunning and immaculate.

A drive down the coast showed us more amazingness. The fishing village was great. The ugliest cats I have ever seen and some very resourceful goats.

Don't want to play on this field.

The Ritz Carlton Hotel was pretty amazing. A bit out of my price range I guess.

Opps - missing photos

I don’t know how they ever survived here before oil. Dates, fish and goats I guess.

We asked Juma to take us to some good Omani food - where the locals would go and he did not disappoint us.

Wow. It was great.

We walked into our private room to sit on cushions on a Persian rug and ate with our fingers – well I did!

The food was so good. The fried king fish was fantastic, but the mutton cooked in the ground with spice was so amazing. Three different spiced rice.

Juma sat with us but would not eat until we had. We had to keep insisting he ate. We think the norm is that he, as the driver that brought us there, could eat what we left – but he did join us although we had to keep inviting him to eat with every dish. He would offer us more and more. We ate about 3 kg of rice each but it was amazing.

We drank lemon juice and mint. Yum.

I had asked for dates, so they brought in a bowl of dates soaked in honey ‘cause dates don’t have enough sugar.

The correct way to eat them was to lick up a few and squash them in your fingers till the pits fell out then to eat the glorious sticky mess off your fingers.

YUM!

Tea followed – sweet and spicy.

The coffee – not for me.

And it all cost about $50! Bonus.

We then went down to The Old Souk. It was great too. And bought a bit more curry powder! I don’t know how old the Souk building is but t was a fantastic building with a wonderful floor. I did wonder who had walked on this floor before me.

It was then back to the ship fro a well earned drink – ‘cause Oman is a dry country.

Brilliant afternoon.

Now we are off to Salalah.

I need to think up more superlatives!

At Sea 19th May

Salalah 20th May

Went on another ships tour today.

Salalah is also amazing.

The Sultan was born here. The Queen of Sheba lived here.

We had a lovely cool day today - 36 degrees, but a baking heat like Australia not a sauna heat. We still sweated like piggies, but not horrid. Just exhausting.

The houses are so different from others we have seen. Single houses on almost "1/4 acre blocks". Locals are given land when they turn 21. So they all have houses.
All houses are surrounded by a high wall and balconies are virtually unheard of. That is so the women can be out side by not be looked at by men passing by.

We went to an archeological dig - Samhuram. Near the town on Taqah and a UNESCO site. Built in the area of Khor Rori, is the most important pre-Islamic settlement in the Dhofar region and in the center of frankincense production areas.

South Arabian inscriptions were carved along the monumental gate to the city. Outside the city wall, a small temple and structures contemporary to the first phase of the city were excavated (3rd century BC - 1st century AD).

The great quantity of iron and bronze objects discovered, as well as the presence of a workshop for metals, suggested that the city was also a very important centre for internal trade towards south-eastern Arabia and the northern coast of Oman, which was rich in copper.

When you talk about a paved road, this is not what you usually think of.

Beautiful. What a place to live.

Next stop Taqah, and a small Palace. The home of a previous Wali. Like a town Mayor. He lived well.

There swords are curved so that they can wear them when kneeling to pray, and when riding a camel. Today the sword MUST be worn for official occasions ie talking to the Sultan when he does his annual "Meet the People Tour".

The bikes are so big and clunky.

Then to the Souq for a bit of shopping, Chai drinking and 'Lemon Mint Juice' drinking.

Frankincense trees. This is where the gift for Jesus came from. Shalalah is one of the major stops the Spice Route.

Then to a fairly nice hotel for lunch. lunch was a disappointment as it was not Omani food - apart form a few things like great Hummus. The beach part was pretty good.

All set up as the perfect beach resort......apart from this permanent sign. Not so good for a beach resort.

Playing in the Arabian Sea. Right before a wave got me up - up to my bum. And got my shoes high up on the beach. Pity the photographer didn't tell me.

We then drove 45 minutes down the coast, through some amazing country. What ever made them decide to settle here.

The hills are full of Gypsum.

This is the last petrol station before Yemen. We didn't go there though! Petrol is so cheap here. Less than water. Around 40 cents a litre. To stop people driving across from neighbouring countries it is necessary to show local ID before be allowed to buy more than 5 litres.

Then we got to the famous white beaches. Very pretty.

We went to an amazing cliff face. Tim was not too impressed to be standing under it. The giant boulders lying around only came for one place.

And the sensational Blow Hole. Our guide had never seen it working this well before.
Before photo.

During

After

Amazing rock formations. Tim was not too impressed to be standing under the overhang.

On the way back we saw more camels. Many camels. Crossing the road.

Nice to get back to air cond and a Mojito.

As we sat in the lounge last evening a big pod of dolphins came and performed for us.

And were leaping around 4 meters out of the water. The show lasted about 15 minutes.

They were so close to the ship.

Some dodgy dolphin photos as I was walking along at one stage today thinking about how sweat soaked my camera lanyard and how wet my arm was.....and guess what happened a short time later....I reached for something and so did the camera. And now it is dead! Luck they are selling better cameras on board now.

Fun day.

And now a few sea days !!!! YAYYYYY.

Thur 21st May

A lovely relaxing day, with not much happening at all.
Especially for this lady having a snooze up in the top lounge.

Relaxing, eating, swimming, sleeping and Concierge Lounging.

Went and cheered for Nan as she got her bottle of bubbles at the Crown and Wanker do.

Watched many many ships at sea.
Lovely.
We all went out to dinner at Giovani's. Had fun.

Sea Day 22nd

We are now in the Red Sea. That means that we are away from Somalia and the Pirates.

I can now talk about that as we are away from them.

Just before we sailed through the Gulf of Aden ie off Somalia we went into a phase called "Operation Safe Haven". It is a super precaution as a crusie ship has never been approached by pirates.

Safe Haven involved.....
All decks closed at night as they have water cannons set up,
SAS on board with multiple bags of "golf clubs",
Almost all outside lights off from sunset to sunrise and curtains shut - even in restaurants.
The bog screen turned off.

This was all to improve night vision of the many spotters.

We did a "Pirate drill" where we had to huddle in various places. Theatre, shops or if in a cabin with a window - in the corridore. Basically away from windows.

Do you think I misinterpreted the dress for the call for a Pirate drill?????

We had a Frigate shadowing us at about 20ks. He did come quite close at one time. Not close enough for good photos but close enough to see.

We then spent the next few days with dark, quiet evenings. You don't realise how much light a cruise ship makes. Looking out the windows at night - with your room lights off was so very dark. Pitch black. Amazing.

The ship security guys loved it as they got to be outside all day in groups with binoculars. They loved looking at the Dolphins, Flying fish etc.

I suppose our SAS guys now get a four day holiday until we reach Israel and they can get off. Or maybe they will jump off as we go through the Suez canal. Apparently it i that narrow - for the big ships.

First look at Africa.

The view out my window during Operation Safe Haven.

So.....Goodbye Somalian Pirates. Glad we never met!

Dolphins.....Dolphins everywhere!!!!

But none will get in front of the camera.

The red Sea is not red at all. It is blue - and flat!

and 23rd May at Sea.

Another lovely relaxed day.

Another flying monkey show.

The plaque went up today. Rhapsody's first visit to Oman. And I was there.

Tim and Raina are thinking of a new career.

But maybe not! Although my one hour of fun only cost $15!

We are near the end of the Red Sea - a 'keyhole' and the roughest seas we have seen. Must be hot winds off the desert whipping up the seas.